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2008 Highlands Sky Race Report
Jim Konopack |
Aside from the intimidating elevation profile, relatively long finish
times and scary race reports from last year's race, my first real clue as
to the beauty and difficulty of this race was driving the hairpin turns
that wind up the mountains as I made the trip west out to Davis, WV on
Route 50. Topping out at 40 mph, I had to apply the brake going UP around
these turns, as thunderstorms rolled across the peaks. I knew it was going
to be a challenging race to say the least.
The night before the race, RD Dan Lehman held a pre-race dinner (complete
with ziti & spaghetti with both meat and plain marinara sauce, garlic
bread, salad, cookies, whole fruit, and his son's micro-brewed beer!) at
the Canaan Valley Resort, where the race also ended the next day. I felt a
bit amateurish as I dined in the large facility surrounded by people like
Dan, the incredible David Horton, Annette Bednosky, and many others
sporting gear from Hardrock and Leadville and talking about MMTR and other
monstrous races. The meeting made me a bit anxious, as several people told
me that the race "runs more like a 50," meaning the mountainous course was
so hard it felt more like 50 miles than 40. I returned to my tent at
Blackwater Falls State Park and fell asleep after the final gear checks,
organization attempts, and reading a little from my library book.
My alarm went off at 4:00am, I got my gear and, as quietly as possible for
consideration of other campers, drove out and down to Canaan Valley. I
changed into my race clothes in the CVR lobby's bathroom and climbed
aboard one of the 2 school buses used to haul us from the finish area at
the resort to the starting line. I thought a lot about mental preparation
and the importance of attitude during the 25-minute bus ride, firming
myself in my resolve to continue walking even if I found thoughts of
defeat creeping into my head during the race.
A quick trip to the port-o-potty behind the cabin at the start and I stood
around with other runners with my two water bottles in hand, funny green
hat on my head, orange trail shoes on my feet, bib pinned to my shorts,
and ready to go. I tossed my drop bag into the van, which I'd see again at
mile 19.7, and paced in anticipation. RD Dan climbed his wiry frame to the
top of a small knoll (he had planned on running WS100 until it was
cancelled this year) and from behind his bristling beard said something
very close to, "Hi everyone! Come up close - here's the starting line. I
hope it doesn't rain on you too much. Everyone ready? Go!" Quite
truthfully, he just said "go" without so much as an "on your marks" -
which really would be dumb, anyway - or an airhorn or anything. It was so
anti-climactic that many of us laughed as we just started running.
The first couple miles were an easy downhill (mostly) on a back-country
road, though paved. I just tried to keep moving along slowly, starting
with the back of the pack, and wait for the eventual single-track. I ran
most of this just behind Willy, Dan's son and the brewer of the "Cold
Trail Ale" and oatmeal stout I sampled the night before at CVR. Willy's
about 6'5" and easily recognizable by, in addition to his height, his two
braids of brown hair that hang down in front of his shoulders. That was
the last I saw of Willy; he probably finshed an hour or more ahead of
me....
After the road stretch, we entered a field with a brisk uphill through
damp grass and then into the woods. The muddiness of the course became
apparent immediately, which is always a factor - someone described the
course to me the night before as "perpetually boggy with innumerable
rocks" - but this was aided by the thunderstorms of the night before. I
ran for a few hundred yards with a young woman who was tackling her first
ultra but was woefully unprepared (cotton socks, no drop bag, etc.), but
lost her when she fell victim to the shoe-sucking-mud (it sucked her shoe
off). Then I caught up to a group that was walking the switchbacks that
climbed up the mountain in our first long ascent. Without even planning to
do so, I caught myself whistling "Whistle While You Work" as we walked and
occasionally ran up the mountain through a tight single track hemmed by
stinging nettles and carpeted with rocks and mud. Check the official race
site, but I think this uphill lasted for over 2 miles.
Once up ontop of the mountains (or near the top), the air was clear, cool,
and sweet with conifers. Some of the bushes had pink, others white,
flowers. There were 2 or 3 small trees along the course that stood out
with brilliant orange blossoms in full bloom; I have no idea what they
were. For the majority of the course, sight-seeing was limited by the
necessity to constantly watch one's feet or else suffer a twisted ankle or
worse. I did, in fact, turn my ankles a few times but never fully rolled
them and managed to stay upright the entire day. Any aspirations for dry
feet were cast aside by this point by those who, unlike me, managed to
stay dry through the muck leading up to the mountaintop.
Between the first and second aid stations was a long enough gap, which
included the first large ascent, that I was out of fluids despite carrying
two Nathan hand-helds, so when the 2nd aid station appeared around another
muddy, rocky bend on the ridgeline, it was a welcome sight. I was staying
well ahead of the cut-offs despite the copious walking on the initial
climb and was feeling good.
The next few sections of the course are a blur right now, but at some
point the craggy puddle-splashing shifted to limestone pebbles, allowing
for a brief look around the woods. After about a half mile or so, we made
a left and crossed a creek that was coppery brown with what I suppose was
high metal or mineral content in the surrounding terrain. This was
followed, eventually, by a tremendously long and, at times, steep downhill
section that must have gone on for about 2 miles or more. I could feel
some sliding in my shoes and worried that the skin of my heels had
blistered up and was coming loose under the friction of rock-jumping and
downhill running while being soaked with stream water and mud, but as I
found out later, this was thankfully not the case. The extreme downhill
was followed by a lot of flat and gradual uphill with plenty of rocks,
then even more uphill and stream crossings. I no longer bounded from rock
to rock but just plowed through the deepest section of chilled mountain
stream I saw, enjoying the coolness on my feet and legs even as most of
the water squished out after emerging on the muddy banks.
Eventually we made it to mile 19.7, the drop-bag location. I stripped down
my hat, shirt, and shoes & socks, applied Vaseline to high-friction zones
and feet as a blister-prevention measure, donned fresh (dry!) shirt,
socks, and hat, and laced up my same trail shoes. Some more supplies from
my bag were added (Perpetuem powder in one bottle and some Gin-Gin Boosts
for down-times to come), I scarfed some boiled (and peeled!) potatoes
dipped in salt along with some Pringles and perhaps a section of PBJ
before topping off the water bottles and heading out along a section of
the course that claimed the morale of many - a roughly 10-mile (?) section
of nearly arrow-straight dirt-and-rock road that gently rolled along the
top of the ridgeline. The road was, as one woman remarked to me on our way
out of the aid station, "a nice reprieve from the rocks," but, as another
seasoned ultra veteran told me on our way several miles up the road,
"there's just something about this road that gets to me." Perhaps it was
the fact that, at times, you could see runners power-walking up hills that
you yourself wouldn't get to for another 15 minutes. I think nearly all
ultra runners love the variation that comes with single-track, and roads
are almost the antithesis to this freshness (the true antithesis being
treadmills, in my opinion). Despite these comments, I felt good after
eating and drinking more - my urine output was colorful and sparse, so for
the rest of the race I tried my best to drink a lot. I power-walked many
of the uphills and slowly ran as much of the rest of the road as I could,
eating a Gin-Gin Boost at one point, which uplifted me. By the time I got
to the merciful left turn off the road an onto the Denali-like high plains
that covered this section of the ridge, I was over an hour ahead of the
cut-off.
Several miles of running on this plateau, sprinkled here and there with
heavily rocked and marshy mud-bogs, I kept making decent time, feeling
good and passing a few people. My energy never waned in this race, and I
attribute this to good nutrition, fluids, and electrolytes; training with
50K races; and adequate mental preparation - I did not underestimate this
course. Some of the views of the Dolly Sods from these ridge lines were so
impressive that it was worth walking on runnable ground (pine-needles over
gravel single-track!) just to gaze at the mountaintops in every direction.
As I navigated the fun boulder-hopping section around mile 31, the
gray-and-white boulders set an ominous contrast against the darkening
skies. Thunder was rolling in from the direction I was headed, and a storm
was imminent. I caught two others who were happily pointing to the next
peak. When I looked up, I saw that it was aid station #7, the
second-to-last on our journey - a tent in a clearing at the top of the
next peak. We ran down, then up, the small saddle between the peaks and
were greeted by a kind boy of about 9 or 10 who took our fluid refills
("What can I get for your bottle? We have water, Gatorade, Heed, Coke,
Mello Yello....") and told us, in the food tent, that he hoped we made it
out before the rain. We laughed and headed out, me about a bit ahead of
the others.
Thunder boomed in all directions, but mostly right where I was heading,
and I was still climbing towards the rumbling sky. The rain first hit as I
was running alone through small grassy fields that wound through the
occasional wooded patches up on the mountain. After a few long, gentle
downhills that were very runnable, I emerged into a large open field and
the rain was coming down hard. Lightning was flashing in the sky as I
realized that I was running up a ski slope! Attempting to avoid being
struck by lightning, I ran parallel to the marked course that went
straight up the middle of the exposed slope, instead running through the
tall grasses that hugged the wood line. I saw one other guy up ahead of me
trudging straight up the slope, so I focused on powerwalking up to try and
catch him, which I did about 2 minutes after leaving the slope alive as we
veered mercifully left into a thick forest not quite at the top of the ski
slope. By now the rain was pouring so hard that it came running off my hat
in a stream rather than droplets, and my technical t-shirt was sticking to
my belly. I passed the other runner, made some sort of remark about being
grateful to be in the woods, and continued on under the cover of trees as
the rain and thunder continued. I'd occasionally glance at my watch, and I
think by now it was around 7 or 8 hours.
A long and extremely downhill section, referred to as the "butt slide" by
some, followed. With the turrential rains, it was very slow going. My feet
faced sideways in one direction, perpendicular to my descent, in order to
help prevent a mudslide. I was very surprised not to fall here, but came
close on several occasions as the rain continued all around.
After the long downhill and a gradual downhill run through slippery, muddy
farm roads, I got to the last aid station, 4.1 miles from the finish. I
was just under 9 hours at this point so knew I had a good shot at breaking
10 hours. The fact that most of the remaining running was on a paved road
was unappealing but promised a decent time. A time of 10 hours on this
race (at 40 miles) is 4mph on average. This seems ridiculously slow to any
road runner who is used to hitting their splits for 5K, 10K, and marathon
distances but who fails to consider variables such as over 5000 feet of
elevation gain, descents where holding onto trees is necessary to remain
vertical, stops for aid and to "water the grass," boulder hopping, gear
changes, and others. However, I was confident that, with 4 miles to go on
mostly flat roads, I could easily powerwalk that without running in less
than an hour, as I was feeling pretty good despite the resurgence of
lightning just as I caught up to a couple other guys on the open road.
The rest of the race I switched many times between powerwalking and
running to maintain a good pace, keep energy and enthusiasm high, and
because trying to kill myself by running the rest of the way in wouldn't
be worth a finish time of 9:35 versus 9:55. In the end, I avoided getting
struck by lightning, caught up to a guy I met at the pre-race dinner, of
all people, and finished the race running the last half mile or more of
trail after crossing the road and running the driveway of the Canaan
Valley Resort. The race ended between the lodge (where we dined the night
before) and the swimming pool, with my official time being 9:47:38. I met
all of my goals for this race and had a fantastic time. Dan was a gracious
RD, greeting each finisher as he or she crossed the finish line, as he
stood there in his rain coat. He even took our photos; I think he missed
me, but that's okay. Race volunteers also gave us our finishers' shirts as
we crossed the line - Patagonia capilene long-sleeves, a great gift. I
snagged a can each of Barq's and Dr. Pepper (might have had a beer if they
had any, but really didn't miss it) and a Zone bar, stuffed them into my
drop bag (now conveniently placed on the floor of the pavillion near the
finish), hosed off my shoes and legs, and hobbled back up the hill to my
car to head back to camp. I decided to forego the post-race meal, which I
had already paid for, as well as the second night of camping (ditto) in
order to shower at camp and drive the 4 hours back to Burke, VA. In the
end I'm glad that I drove back through the rain to stay with my family and
friends in their house in Burke rather than camp, uncomfortably, alone in
a thunderstorm.
This race was one of my best, hardest, and most fun, and the recovery time
afterwards was both much needed and well earned.
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