Highlands Sky 40 Mile Trail Run

Summary:

MP: This year’s race was a lot better for me than last year. Better weather helped a lot, I was also determined to stay positive and enjoy it this year. New Nathan pack worked great, I loved the two pockets in front that gave me easy access to everything I needed. Did 1 endurolyte every 30 minutes, used Hammergel and Clif Shot blocks, had a PBJ square at most AS, and a few potatoes where available. Only had one time where I felt a little nauseous, ate crystallized ginger and that really seemed to help. Stayed with the same shoes the whole time, no blisters, love those Injinji socks. Running with Lorrin the whole way was great, we could pick each other up as necessary and ran a great race together. I’m happy I finished a lot faster than last year, but I’m even more pleased that I enjoyed it so much more this time around. Dolly Sods is an amazing place, I’m lucky to have gotten to see so much of it!

LH: I hate to choose favorites, but Highlands Sky has a great combination of changing and challenging terrain: steep mountains, rocks, grassy plains, bogs, pine groves, and laurel covered highlands. Plus spectacular views and tremendous volunteer support. Plenty of food for us stragglers – my only mistake was not eating enough. The second half of my race was fueled by 3 tums and 2 cups of coke. The trail was rerouted in two places on the second half, so we got to see some new terrain, and the near-vertical ‘butt-slide’ was even more challenging with the added bonus of diesel fumes and mud as ATV racers roared nearby. It was much more fun to run with Michelle – less imaginary competition with others around me!

Race Report – LONG Version!

MP: Why did I decide to do Highlands Sky? That was the question running through my mind in 2006 when I tried it for the first time. The first 3 years of the race I worked at AS#3 (mile 15.6) and I knew how rough everyone looked when they came through our AS. Then I would go work at the finish line and I saw they looked rough but they also looked really happy as they crossed the finish line! So I ran it and finished in 2006 but it took me 11 hours and 45 minutes and it was pretty much a miserable race for me. The hot weather didn’t help. I think I vowed never to do it again and told Dan (the race director) I wanted my aid station job back. I felt like I pushed it too hard in the first half and spent the whole second half in a death march, I spent very little time actually appreciating the fact that I was in Dolly Sods Wilderness Area, one of the prettiest places in the east.

MP: As I decided whether or not to try it again in 2007, I knew I needed a new plan. My goal was to ENJOY it this time and appreciate the beauty of Dolly Sods, to do this I knew I would need to run at my own pace in the first 20 miles so I had something left for the second half. This meant I might not get to run with any of my trail running buddies, but I figured it would allow me to survive. Of course I would still have to make the cut-offs.

MP: I got ready as usual by looking at the 2006 times. As I looked at the splits for the second half of the race, I found that I really had lost a lot of time between miles 26 and 32. I also saw that my splits were pretty close to Lorrin’s and it seemed realistic to think I could do somewhere between Lorrin’s time and my time from 2006. So I used our splits as I put together my mileage/split info to carry during the race.

LH: Unlike Michelle, I had a positive experience with the race last year, and was hoping to further improve this year, as long as it wasn’t too hot. I wasn’t sure if I was undertrained from “resting” after PromiseLand; the 23 mile training run plus 5k races were my big runs since the end of April. Or overtrained, from the 7 ultras I’d already done this year.

LH: Additionally, I was planning to break 2 big rules: I was going to wear a pair of shoes I’d only run up to 10 miles in, and I was going to wear a brand new pair of shorts! Ok, I’m not really that crazy. I gave my trail-tested shorts to Joe to keep at AS 3 and I had a broken-in pair of shoes at AS 4. Just in case.

LH: As usual, we tried to leave early, but Joe is constrained by school hours. We finally got on the road, only to face immediate traffic as there was an accident within 1 exit of our house. So we missed the pre-race dinner and had to settle for some over-cheesed chicken parmegian at the restaurant.

Start to AS#2, mile 10.1

MP: 6 am finally rolls around and Dan yells go, I’m not sure I even heard him, everyone just started to run. Lorrin, Amanda and I take off running down the road, we settle into an easy pace for those first 2.2 miles on the road to the fluids only aid station. We hit the AS, as we started up the hill leaving the AS, Amanda took off, that was the last we would see of her until the finish!

MP: We started up the first muddy part of the trail, trying to dodge the biggest mud holes. I was a little nervous to see that we were running near Alan Gowan who is way faster than me. Then I remembered he had just done MMT and figured he would get going soon enough. Then Mike Priddy passed us, weird, were we going too fast? No, they were both gone before I knew it. We walked/ran up the long switchbacks trying to avoid the stinging nettles. Fortunately the faster folks had made a pretty nice path so I mostly stayed nettle free! Next we hit the straight up portion of our 2300 foot ascent and I felt myself pushing too hard. I let two guys go by and told Lorrin I’d see her at the top.

LH: Well, even though I booked up the hill, I had to re-tie and readjust my shoes 4 times, so that gave Michelle plenty of time to catch up to and then pass me! As I tried to catch back up to her, I was patiently waiting to maneuver around a fellow when he dramatically fell sideways across a stream! He refused my offer of help but seemed to be ok.

MP: We finally reached the top, passed a guy, and then got out into the Roaring Plains section of the trail. The views were awesome in all directions and there was a nice breeze. The trail was wetter than when we did our training run a few weeks ago, but it actually felt good. The trail is so rocky up there that when it’s wet, it really just means there’s an inch or more of clear water sitting on top of the rocks, you just splash your way through, I’m always glad it isn’t muddy! We passed a group of people here that clearly did not appreciate the rocks as much as we did and were picking their way through slowly.

LH: Yeah, we passed them by charging through the boggy puddles they were gingerly stepping around! We might be slow, but we’re not afraid of mud!

MP: One woman from this group joined us as we passed the others – the three of us ran together to the AS, talked about pink lady’s slippers wildflowers and how pretty it was up here. We reached the AS in 2:46:29, a few minutes ahead of last year’s time, and well ahead of the 3:15 cut-off. Grabbed a few quick snacks and set off down the short section of road.

LH: I felt like a brat, but I was kinda annoyed by how “loaded” the PB&J was with peanut butter. So here I threw out a corner rather than eating it… (this is called ‘foreshadowing’).

AS#2 to AS#3, mile 15.6

MP: If you run this, don’t forget, you leave the AS, run a short way down the fire road and then turn left onto a trail. This turn is marked if you are paying attention to the ribbons hanging from the trees, and there is usually a ribbon across the road to indicate not to go there, but it can disappear, someone misses this turn every year!

MP: We quickly crossed a small stream, some woods, and then were back out into the open with some beautiful views. Lorrin and I continued to comment on how much everything had grown since we were there 3 weeks before, they must have had some rain out there in those 3 weeks! It seemed like there were ferns everywhere and some were almost shoulder high, I think I saw every shade of green that exists in the world! We got to the point where you enjoy your last great view before plunging down the side of the mountain 1700 feet. I always enjoy this down hill stretch!

MP: This year turned out to be a little different. This is a really steep, often loose, rocky section, now it was also slick with moisture and I felt like I was on black ice at times. I almost fell a couple of times and think I went slower than I’ve ever gone on this section.

Fortunately Lorrin entertained me with descriptions of the Borat movie and next think I know we were down to the creek and starting our way back up the hill toward AS#3.

LH: I was a little disappointed by the need for more precaution because I enjoy raging down this section when it’s dry! We later heard several people say they took a tumble here. This is also where Pam Gowen was around us last year, and I wondered where she was & hoped she was having a good race. Unfortunately, she ended up taking a detour later on in the course and missed the cutoffs.

MP: This passed fairly quickly for me – we actually passed a couple of people here I think. We also agreed not to spend much time in AS#3 where Megan, Joe and Bill were or we were afraid we wouldn’t want to leave. That cold beer in the cooler might be too much temptation. We hit the AS in 4:30:18, slightly slower than last year but well under the 5:05 cut-off!

LH: I knew that Michelle was going to have a great race when we hit the stream crossing where during last years’ training run and race she had started to mention the effects of heat/lack of energy. This year, not a peep. She just bounded up the trail! At AS#3, I ate the least-loaded PB&J I could find, but it was so sticky I couldn’t really eat anything else… Luckily, the brand-new shorts were still extremely comfortable, so I didn’t change them. I was starting to get a hot spot in the arch of my right foot, so I knew I would have to change shoes at AS#4.

AS#3 to AS#4, mile 19.3

MP: Refilled the Nathan pack, grabbed some potatoes and PBJ and got the heck out. The trail crosses a fire road here and continues to ascend up the hill. We climbed for what felt like another mile and then were back on top running through mixed woods and open areas. Again we passed a few more folks here who were really hating the rocks, some mentioned how much they were looking forward to the road, we rock-heads just motored on by.

LH: It was weird – there were some genuine, “fast-looking people” and they were trudging along dejectedly! It definitely helps prepare one mentally to do the training runs and to know the course. I knew there was no reason to be discouraged by speed over the rocks, because there was the road where one could make up time. And it was nice to enjoy the shade while we still had it, because for the next 12ish miles I knew there would be no shade.

MP: We hit the first of the 10 boardwalks that signify you are getting close to the road and began our count down. Before I knew it we were at the road, turn right and continue up hill about a mile to the AS. Lorrin and I were still running well together, we walked/ran toward the AS and made our plans to change shoes, resupply food, salt, etc at our drop bags.

MP: Arrived at AS in 5:28:30, slightly ahead of our time last year and still well ahead of the 6:05 cut-off here. I was also encouraged here by the fact that my split on this section was about 6 minutes faster than last year.

LH: Reapplied sunblock, loaded up on more clif bloks, changed shoes – that felt good! I only wish I’d had a change of socks, too. duh. Surveyed the table, but I’m not sure if I ate anything … I was eating clif blocks and taking salt pretty regularly, but nothing at the tables was appealing to me.

AS#4 to AS#5, mile 22.3

MP: A little over 7 miles to go on an open, undulating, dirt and gravel road. I barely even remember how I made it through this section last year, I was really dehydrated and hurting. We alternated run/walk – walk up the hills, run on the flats and downhills. If we had a long flat stretch, we would pick a spot to run to, walk a bit, repeat. In this section we were passed by a few people, but I figured these were the rock haters that were really a lot faster than me anyway, at least once out on a road!

Next thing I know we roll into AS#5 in a split of 41:59, elapsed time of 6:10:29. Both times faster than last year!

LH: I am feeling good! I feel like I can keep a strong, consistent pace. The change in shoes is miraculous; I no longer feel the hot spot at all. Yay!

AS#5 to AS#6, mile 26.6

MP: We don’t stay long here, continue the walk/run mode, look forward to getting off the road! We were also lucky on this road section because there was a nice breeze and the clouds rolled through every now and then and gave us some relief from the sun. It was much nicer than last year! Also, to our surprise, we even passed a few people here.

LH: This year the road seemed much, much shorter. I think with Michelle along for company, it definitely helped pass the time as we alternated picking out landmarks as our run/walk goal. At one point, I looked up and realized that I had not truly noticed the surroundings, that it was a glorious not-to-hot day, with clear blue skies, and the laurel blooming pink and white all around as we ran the road across the sky.

MP: Then we hit AS#6 for our visit with Dan and Tom Todd and Gene. They comment on how good I look, better than last year they say! I choose to believe them! Last year I tried to quit at this AS and Dan and Gene talked me out of it, I still thank them and curse them at the same time!

MP: We arrive here in 7:02:21, still ahead of last year’s time and ahead of the 7:30 cut-off. Key point here, there are no more cut-offs from here on out, you just need to finish under 12 hours to be an official finisher.

LH: Here I didn’t need water yet, and the food just wasn’t appealing to me… I was starting to get a “oversalted feeling” in my stomach. hmm….

MP: Dan tells us that someone has taken down a mile or so of the ribbons marking the course between here and the next AS. He gives some detailed info on how to stay on course, also says one of the other AS guys is out trying to remark the course. I absorb nothing Dan has told me about directions and just hope the guy has the course remarked or that I somehow recognize it from last year.

AS#6 to AS#7, mile 32.4

LH: Dan is telling us the names of the actual trails and intersections, but my brain can only comprehend “orange/good; yellow/no-go.” I am glad that I’ve run this race before, and that we hiked out here after the training run, so I know I can at least get us to the hill above our campsite. Luckily, that is the stretch where the markers were missing, but a volunteer had done a good job of using rocks and sticks to make large arrows to point the way. There were also scraps of white cloth, and as the guy was shirtless when he passed us on his way back to the aid station, I wondered it he’d used his shirt to mark the trail.

MP: Many say this 5.8 miles is the prettiest part of the race. I have to agree. Last year I really didn’t enjoy it at all. Because of the heat I felt like I was in Badwater, I doubt I looked up once to enjoy my surroundings. I enjoyed it as much as possible this time around, I still want to go back and hike it at a leisurely pace. The trail doesn’t turn out to be hard to follow, the guy has done a great job. I particularly liked when he made an arrow of rocks pointing in the direction we were supposed to go and spelled out the word “GO” in rocks, that was cool!

LH: The boggy section on the way to where Mical, Paul, Joe & I camped is now covered by brand-spanking new boardwalk. Apparently, there is a rare, protected plant here that was discovered when Dan submitted his latest permit. I hope we didn’t step on it.

LH: I remember loving this stretch last year, also that it is very long. Last year, I passed the time battling with another woman, but she eventually beat me on the road. Now, I just settled in and tried to enjoy the views. Once you cross the stream and run through a boggy stretch through some trees (now covered by another boardwalk) you come out on a grassy plain with just stupendous views. You also pass through sections of pine trees, and then out into another plain covered in blueberry, cranberry, and more blooming laurel. A spine of white rocks stretches across to your left, and you can see a continuous chain of mountains stretching to the horizon. And, strangely, we pass Willie, who is walking with a friend.

LH: But the beauty of my surroundings was tempered by a nagging fear, as I was becoming nauseous. I tried to take little sips of water, and I had already reduced my salt from 1 succeed/hour to 1 every 2 hrs. I just didn’t want to eat anything. I had a luna bar, clif bloks, and gels (both clif and hammer) in my pack. I’d already eaten a ginger candy on the road. Michelle was having a great race, so I thought I should try to just hang with her, but try not to drag her down.

LH: Next we get to a point where the course has been re-routed from where it used to go on private property to now use a newly constructed trail. Which was annoying, because there were still lots of tiny stumps just waiting to trip you up and lots of brush that had not quite been cleared from foot traffic yet. Dolly Sods used to be a testing ground for weapons, and they warn people to be aware of unexploded ordnance, which usually one would not see on the well-used trails. I swear I was not hallucinating, but I saw some 2-inch-long bullets in the middle of the trail!

MP: This section was really pretty, I tried to enjoy the views and not fall on my face. We saw a lot of backpackers through this section – this seemed strange because the whole rest of the day we had only seen AS volunteers and fellow runners. Some of the backpackers must have heard from earlier runners that we were running a 40 miler, they stepped aside to let us pass and gave us words of encouragement. I was secretly envious of them, I imagined the stars they would see tonight from their campsite, wow!

LH: I was hoping this new route would bypass everybody’s favorite – the boulder section. But no. I am tired, obsessed with my nausea, and here is the boulder scramble. As I tried to lower myself from one boulder to a lower one (no hopping now!) I imagine Dan throwing back his head and laughing with maniacal glee at our difficulties.

MP: I love boulder scrambles, but this one comes at a really tough time. Jumping 2 feet down from one boulder to the next seems like a really bad idea, my feet hurt and I’m afraid my legs will crumple. Jumping over crevices seems like an even worse idea! Somehow we manage to sit down and slide or carefully step over each obstacle, once again wondering how people like Brad Mongold, Bill Young, etc get through these sections. I still want to see a video of a couple of these front runners to see exactly how they run through these tough sections! Levitation maybe??

MP: Even though I’m enjoying it this time around, I wonder when we are ever going to get to the AS. Finally I start up a slight hill and spy the blue of the tent for the AS. This is the AS where the volunteers have to hike everything in, including 30 gallons of water, they are AWESOME! We’ve arrived here at 8:46:26, split of 1:44:05, I’m psyched because we’re here AND I am 20 minutes faster on this section than last year. I drink some coke or mountain dew, I can’t remember, and then we move on.

LH: I catch up to Michelle, and tell her about the nausea. She remembers that Dan gave all the aid stations a first aid kit with Tums, so when we get to the next aid station, I eat a Tums and have a cup of coke.

AS#7 to AS#8, mile 36.5

MP: We leave the AS, I enjoy one last look to the west, down into Canaan Valley. The folks at this AS really do have the most amazing views in all directions. We start down a pretty “runnable” stretch, I think I’m probably more into shuffling than running now. The trail is a 6 inch wide rut through grassy fields, I can’t decide if I want to run in the rut or on the side in the grass, both seem really hard. Soon the decision is made for me as we hit what looks to me to be a 6-8 foot wide river of rocks trail. I pick my way through here and look up to see two people ahead turning right into the woods. It’s probably good I saw them, several folks missed this turn and continued straight on this road and missed the entire downhill/ATV section of the course. Always remember to look for the ribbons!

MP: After this right turn, we quickly start the trudge up the ski slope. I can’t believe we are already here! As we are climbing the slope, we start to hear rock and roll music and the roar of engines. Uh oh, we are getting closer to the ATV/motorcycle racers, little did I know what was to come. Turn left at top of ski slope, start through some woods on a trail that is supposed to be for XC skiing, I can’t quite imagine skiing through here…then we get to the straight downhill section of trail. Here is where I once again have to sit down on a rock and scoot down 3 or 4 feet to the trail. Two guys step aside to let us pass, I swing from tree to tree with “George, George, George of the jungle, watch out for that tree!” running through my head. I keep one eye out for ribbons and one eye out for ATVs hurtling through the trees. Some how we make it to the bottom, as we cross the board over a small stream, the iplayoutside photographer takes our picture and tells us we’re almost there. Cool!

LH: Now I know what a deer must feel like as it stands by the side of the road as gigantic loud vehicles go whizzing by. Except you also have to descend vertically down about a mile of freshly cut “trail” through some pretty dense woods. Last year was pretty steep – this year was a grab one tree and swing to the next. But I also think it was much better marked this year. Again, I imagined Dan laughing at the ridiculousness of this section. It seemed longer, but that might also have been because I kept expecting an ATV to fly off course, landing on top of me. Here, Willie materialized out of the woods and flew past us.

MP: We run down the road to the AS, arriving at 9:53:48, split of 1:07:22. Ashley Young and Hilary Young greet us. Ashley says “I didn’t know you were running this year Michelle!” – I mumble something in reply. I think it’s here where I ask if they know how Lydia is doing (Hilary’s mom, Ashley’s aunt) and they say she got pulled at AS#6, missed the cut-off by 14 minutes. I’m bummed for her but elated we are only 4.2 miles from the finish!!

AS#8 to FINISH!!, mile 40.7

LH: The last aid station. The Tums didn’t hurt, so this time I took 2 more and another cup of coke. “Follow Michelle, follow Michelle” is all I had in my head. We were passed on the road but I’d say by only a couple people – people who’d gotten lost in the so-called trail section! But we also passed others, including a couple of guys that never caught back up to us once we hit a grassy stretch. Then up the Canaan Resort road, where some kids in a tractor-pulled vehicle passed and waved. That made me feel like a star!

MP: Hot asphalt, yuck! Just gotta get through it. We run to shade, walk a bit. We seem to be gaining on a few folks, how could that be? We pass them, turn left into the grassy section. Sure glad those earlier runners beat down this waist high grass for us, I put one foot in front of the other and try not to step in any holes. We cross the main road into Canaan Valley SP, only a mile or two to go. We pass Joyce Fendley and another guy walking, I congratulate Joyce on her MMT finish.

LH: At last, we entered the woods, the last mile. “Follow Michelle.” OUCH! I got stung by a bee! I tried to channel the adrenaline, and made it up the hill and past the scummy pond – my landmark for when to “act like you’re running” again. Last year, there was a lady “hiking” here, and she wouldn’t get out of my way! No such obstacle this time, and with a final glance over my shoulder to make sure there were no Wargos, I caught up to Michelle, who had so nicely paused to wait for me to catch up so we could finish together. We high-fived then ran down the hill to the finish! Yay!

MP: I spy the flags leading us to the woods again and that last 0.5 mile or so of trail to the finish. Glad to be off that darn road! We see one person in the distance but he is moving well and we can’t catch him. We turn left up the last small hill to the finish. WV folks never seem to get enough of uphills do they? I don’t even remember the scummy pond from last year, was it really there? Next thing I know we are crossing the finish line and RD Dan takes our picture and gives us a hug! We then claim our really cool, orange, Patagonia finisher shirt.

MP: We finished in 10:48:19, split of 54:31. Lorrin took about 27 minutes off her time from last year, I took off about 57 minutes!

LH: Believe it or not, after dinner, some rest, and a huge breakfast, Joe, Bill, Amanda, Megan, Michelle and I took a 3-hour hike the next day. A great way to work out that lactic acid! And we saw a big garter snake

Highlands Sky Race Report

Author: Emmy Stocker

As my 49th birthday approached, and with training for an upcoming 50 mile race, I decided in a fit of craziness to join several friends of mine who were running in the West Virginia Highland Sky 40 mile trail race – I knew it would be difficult, but I had done the training -still I was petrified of getting in a mental state for a potential 12-hour run. But am so glad I went – the race was an all-day adventure and I met the most amazing people – and even the race director (with his 5 kids helping out) made the event rewarding and fun – and the course was the most well-marked , even with the orange flags at miles 27-29 vandalized (sending the leader off course). This race made the CT Nipmuck trail marathon and LI Greenbelt 50K seem like cakewalk (2 previous trail runs I had completed).

Well, I finished (the longest and hardest ultra so far) in 9:50 – almost 10 hours of running – 3 hours longer than I had gone before. Frank Colella, who found the race and brought up the crazy idea to me, finished in fine shape (his 8th marathon in 6 weeks – enroute to the July 100 miler), along with our friends Yuki and Hiro from Westchester (Yuki and Hiro are in the 50 states club and this was a new state for them, and they are accomplished endurance runners), as did Frank’s friend Tim from PA – even slipping on some rocky moss and cracking some ribs!

The race itself is, according to ultra legend Dave Horton, ‘mile for mile’ the toughest run in the East’ -so even though it is ‘only’ 40 miles, it is the equivalent in energy spent to a 50 mile event and I heard this from many of the runners, that Highland Sky took them much longer than a 50 miler).
The cut-off for the race is 12 hours! Runners had to make it to the 26.7 mile mark by 7 hours in order to finish…When i read the race website and the previous race reports, I was scared-
it seemed like the race was one big obstacle course in the Dolly Sods wilderness of West Virginia (home to ski mountains). 2 miles uphill to start, 2 climbs up a 5,000 foot ski mountains on single track trails, rocky ledges, descents, boardwalk trails, 8 miles of dirt road straight uphill, pasture trails, and almost a mile of boulder-hopping, another climb up a ski mountain and descent thru a bush-whacked trail, and 4 miles of mostly uphill roads and trail to the finish! However, the race featured the most amazing mountain scenery, 2 dinners , breakfast, 8!! aid stations loaded with food and finishers’ Patagonia shirts.

After a long but uneventful drive (going by the Cumberand, MD start of the JFK 50 miler!), Frank and I arrived at the Canaan Valley Resort, just over the border of WV. He was driving down anyway, but I offered to be the designated driver. It was 6 p.m. so we went right to check in to our rooms and to the race and pasta dinner – the race director gave a briefing of the course and said to look out for recently uncovered landmines! The bus would leave for the 6 .m. start at 5 a.m. 10 miles away from the resort, but would finish back at the resort. Most of the runners talked Friday night of their recent 100 or 50 milers or of the recent 70 mile Laurel highlands run – these people were insane! A good percentage of runners were from VA and WV but people came from all over -KY, OH…alot of them were going to drive to Vermont for the July 21 VT 100.

After a fitful sleep, I woke up at 4:15, got my drop bag together (to be brought to mile 20),
and met the bus – the talk in my section of the bus was of shoes and hydration systems, but mostly everyone was quiet for the long day ahead. I met a woman from Louisville, KY, who drove all night to get to the race, and a man who had just finished the Massanutten Mountain 100 3 weeks ago.
The weather was perfect – cool, dry and sunny – it would stay @70 degrees the whole day. Last year was apparently very hot, so we lucked out. We also had less mud and water on the trails.
At 6 we started off on a dirt road, that steadily climbed uphill for 2 miles – my trail shoes didn’t feel great, but my ankle tendon was OK and i said a silent prayer for that (I had rolled my ankle in the May 20 soapstone trail run) – I actually pushed the pace, knowing I would be slow on the rocky trails.

After an aid station, we turned an went on a steady climb up the bottom of a ski slope and onto the toughest climb of the day – a switchback single-track climb up at 5,000 mountain – nettles and steep dropoffs! At the top, no rest for the weary – we ran on trails with gazillion rocks – big boulders, little boulders – it was here that about 10 -15 people passed me – discouraging! How can they run so fast over those big rocks!!! I ran with a woman who had run last year and she said that this was the worst section – if we could get thru mile 15, we’d be OK (NOT! the second half was just as bad) – at the 10 mile aid station, we ran on a gorgeous mountain trail and then turned and went down the mountain – because it was such slow going, I was more confident and no one passed me – one man slipped twice and had horrible falls -then we turned and climbed up another mountain – I loved the hiking uphill part – because I had been biking, think my quads were alot stronger – a guy named Gary came up behind me and we struck up a conversation – he was an ultra runner from Ohio the farthest he had gone was 60 miles of the Rocky Racoon 100 miler) – we agreed to stay together and talked the whole way (till mile 28 when he pulled ahead). At this point, I relaxed and started to enjoy myself – we complained and grumbled that we were so slow on the rocky trails and before we knew it, we were on flat runnable high mountain trails – gorgeous scenery and pink and red Mountain Laurel – and a big buck startled Gary and I – but he ran off! We then hit the ‘road to hell’ – 8 miles of dirt uphill road. I had been looking forward to this but my quads were SO FATIGUED from the climbs and from lifting on the trails and my mind was fried – Gary pulled me along – we met his parents and wife at the aid station. We both changed our socks – he got new shoes – and we pushed on – the hills were so high that you could see runners ahead and behind you like little ants. I had seen Frank taking off from the mile 20 aid station as I pulled in. After mile 27 we ran down a rocky pasture trail, thru a creek and up (surprize – another hill) a mountain – Gary took off and I saw Frank walking – he had hit the wall and just couldn’t run -he knew he would get his second wind. I was not going to leave him so we walked over the unrunnable terrain with a guy named Bill – all three of us went together over the boulder section (rock scrambling) and and over more rocky trails – we finally hit aid station 7 at mile 32 – a sign said ‘next 4 miles mostly downhill’ – well, they didn’t tell us that we had to climb a ski mountain again! Yuki and Hiro had caught up with us so we all hiked the mountain together to the bottom of the chairlifts, where we turned off and began our decent into hell on these switchback bushwhack trails…out onto the dirt roads at mile 36 and I began to get excited as I felt good and knew it was mostly road – and the finish was in sight – had been on my feet for 9 hours –I ran the last 4 miles (uphills also, of course) in 44 minutes – we finished on a hiking trail in back of the resort that had roots and rocks – they weren’t going to make this easy! I was elated to get thru the finish line – I heard ‘ congratulations Emmy!’; and it was Gary’s family cheering me on! Yuki and Hiro took photos and I waited for Frank – they had sodas, beer, fruit, food – at 6 p.m. they had a fabulous feast of hamburgers and hot dogs and beer – and a raffle for all the runners – Yuki won Montrail shoes and I only won a bottle of Hammer Gel. After passing out we made good time coming home -in time for me to help at a father’s day ice cream social with the kids. The funniest sight was the lines of muddy socks and trail shoes outside the motel doors. Insane…

HS40 – Heather Griffith

God, this race was so awesome! I just cannot say enough about it. First off, the mountains are the most beautiful place I’ve ever ran in my life and I can’t wait to run the Rattlesnake 50K and other races in WV and VA, and also to come back again next year for this race!

The lodge couldn’t have been any more perfect a place to stay for this race and it was just so
wonderful to be able to relax soon after finishing! My legs were beat up, but my ankles may have been worse. I woke at 10:40 p.m., after easily getting to sleep at 8:00 p.m., to find just how sore I was and to “try” to walk to the bathroom. I was basically holding onto objects to be able to walk right then. I lie back down thinking, “God, it would be nice if I could go back to sleep soon. There’s no way I’ll get back to Louisville on this kind of sleep and then be able to work!” So it only took me MAYBE 20 minutes to doze off again! I ended up sleeping 10 1/2 hrs, but good thing cuz then I had to stay up for nearly 24 hrs (once I got back to Louisville, had to work til 5:30 a.m.)!

On the race…it started out quite flat actually and I thought, “This race was supposed to be tough!” Oh but then, one HUGE climb and the decent after being brutal, then the rest of the run was just plain brutal! I might have mentioned to you already that is why I chose the course…the difficulty of it was supposed to be high level! And it was…really terrible! I seek out these types of races though, and go from one great challenge to an even greater one. I have 6 more races I will complete this year, all ultras. I will run 2 50-milers 2 weeks apart in September, which will be really tough for me. Then my longest race yet will be the Hellgate 100K in December…yes, I do plan on running it even though it’s supposed to be cold weather…one thing I really don’t like but makes the race even tougher!

I do have to mention I could not have gotten through the last 14 miles so smoothly without my new friend Ron Bierman. He was just amazing the way he stayed w/me the rest of the way and we had some great conversations out there, even stopped for a view of the beautiful scenery a few times, to distract from the incredible pain I’m sure we were both feeling! We were even able to help each other stay on the course, and not wonder off somewhere else that looked like a better path! He’s the only reason I didn’t fall in between those boulders! I mean, it’s my first time ever crossing boulders and it was a scary experience! So we ended up crossing some of them together, which brought my HR from maybe 120 down to 90!

Anyhow, I could have definitely stayed at Canaan Valley longer, and look forward to coming back and putting my body through this pure torture next June!
Happy Running.

Highlands Sky Trail Run 2007

Author: Frank Colella

I looked forward to running the Highlands Sky Trail Run, but I certainly didn’t look forward to the 7+ hour drive to Davis, West Virginia. So I was thrilled when my friend Emmy decided to run it less than a week before the race! As it was, my friends Yuki, Hiro, and Tim had already registered and I looked forward to seeing them. The drive actually took almost 9 hours – we left just after 9 and arrived at the Canaan Valley Resort just after 6! We checked in, but didn’t bother going to our rooms since the dinner had already begun and the pre-race briefing was at 7.

Instead, I picked up my race packet and had some dinner. Emmy wasn’t too far behind me since there were not too many post registrants. I found Yuki and Hiro and grabbed a couple of seats next to them. But there was no sign of Tim. The next morning I learned that he had skipped the dinner and had stayed at a different hotel.

The race director, Dan Lehmann, covered typical pre-race business at the briefing. But the item that really caught my attention was the news about the unexploded ordnance that still littered portions of the Dolly Sods! In the 1940’s it was home to artillery training for the U.S. Army. Apparently tons of unexploded bombs were still out there for our amusement. We really didn’t have to worry too much since the more populated areas had been swept clean years ago.

After dinner and the briefing, as I walked out of the main building to find my room, a deer stood on the path to my building! This was as back to nature as it gets. I had requested a 4 a.m wake-up call, which gave me plenty of time to catch the 5 a.m. bus to the start. When I left my room it was in the low 50’s with very high humidity. There were three buses in front of the lodge. As luck had it, I got on second bus and took a seat directly behind Tim. Emmy also took that bus, but I didn’t see Yuki and Hiro until we arrived at the start.

The course has a two mile stretch of road before the trail. The next thirteen miles contain a climb of 2300 feet, a 1700 foot descent and another climb of 1200 feet. Significant portions of both climbs and the descent are highly technical, single track trail. Just before the half way point, at mile 19.8, runners can access a drop bag. The next 7.3 miles are straight uphill along a section of dirt road. At 26.6 miles, runners get back on the trail in the Dolly Sods region. Miles 30-31 contain large boulders and rock formations. Miles 34-35 contain a ski slope followed by a steep vertical descent. The final 4 miles were mainly on roads. Most of the trail was covered with rocks, and included numerous stream crossing and muddy bogs.

I ran the 2.2 miles to the first aid station in 19:48 – way too fast given the incline and humidity. My real mistake, however, was misreading the sign exiting the aid station. Instead of “7.9 miles to the next aid station,” I read it as “next aid station at 7.9 miles!” The first climb consisted of three long switchbacks cut through bramble that contained stinging nettles. While annoying, the nettles did little more than give me a few scrapes. Tim was ahead of me on the switch backs when I heard him shout out when he took a fall. It was a nasty spill but got back up, slightly bruised, and kept moving.

Soon we encountered rocky trails, that gave way to rocky bogs – mud and rocks, what a combination. A 20-something runner shot past me there and said, “isn’t this awesome!” Of all the adjectives at my disposal, “awesome” wasn’t close to what I was thinking! But I had to smile at his enthusiasm because it was contagious. But after an hour and a half I had started to wonder where the second aid station was, and why it was taking me so long to cover 5.7 miles. In a somewhat gloomy mood, I emerged from the trail and spotted the aid station. As I read the sign that said 10.1 miles – I could’ve jumped for joy!

Instead of 1:55:29 for 5.7 miles, I had done 7.9 miles in that time. My split for the first 10.1 miles was 2:15:17. It was 5.5 miles to the next aid station. We ran a small distance on road before returning to the trail and had to climb a bit before the downhill. At this point the runners were pretty well spread out. I had already lost sight of Tim before the second aid station. The first part of the descent was a wet, leafy couple of switchbacks. While steep and slippery it was definitely runnable. But that terrain was replaced by rocks. My only injury came on that downhill when I slammed my left hand against a rock in an effort to maintain my balance. No blood, but it was slightly swollen for a while. This stretch was also wet, with plenty of water and mud.

I reached the third aid station, 15.6 miles, in 3:43:19. It took me 1:28:01 to cover 5.5 miles. I was well ahead of the cut-offs, and I wasn’t spending more than 2-3 minutes at the aid stations – so I was very happy with my progress. The next stretch was only 3.7 miles long and had the drop bags at the “half-way” point, aid station 4 at 19.8 miles. Yet another rocky climb soon leveled off and we encountered our first freshly built wood plank walkways across some of the larger bogs. It took me 54:56 to cover the 3.7 miles, reaching aid station 4 in 4:38:16.

This was well ahead of my sub-10hour target. I lingered there for about 7 minutes. I refilled my bottles with Gatorade that I had in my drop bag. I also switched into a dry hat – but didn’t bother with dry socks since my feet had been wet most of the morning and the afternoon didn’t hold the promise of any drier conditions. At one point I thought I could make up some time here. But one look at the steep climb – and the lack of shade – quickly disabused me of that idea. I reached the next aid station, 3 miles down the road, in 37:54. Discounting the 7 minutes spent at the previous aid station, it was a 10 minute pace. The 4.3 miles to reach the next aid station took 45:52. I reached 26.6 miles in 6:02:03.

It was there that I learned that vandals had taken down the course markers along the next couple of miles of trail in the Dolly Sods. Race official were going to remark that stretch, but for now, we were on our own. Luckily, a couple of runners were ahead of me and we had no trouble getting down to the stream, crossing it, and heading uphill to the plateau where the course markers were untouched. The windswept plateau provided some spectacular views of the grasslands.

But around mile 29 or so I felt the wall looming ahead of me. I made a pit stop alongside some bushes and decided to have some sport beans to see if the sugar would give me a boost. But I just fell into a funk and had to walk. Soon enough a couple of runners caught up to me, then a couple of more, and I was wondering if I’d ever get a second wind. Just as I finished my last sport bean I heard Emmy shout my name. She was less than a quarter mile behind me. When she caught up I told her I was pretty beat and was trying to walk thru this bad patch. So we stuck together for a while as I shuffled, jogged, or power walked to keep myself moving forward. Eventually we reached the rocky plateau that led to the boulder hopping section of the Dolly Sods. Another runner had caught up to us there and we three stuck together thru the boulders and into aid station 7 at 32.4 miles. I had covered the last 5.8 miles in 1:46:15, reaching the aid station in 7:48:18. My 10 hour target was still doable. But 8 more miles in just over 2 hours was starting to seem out of reach.

I refilled all 4 water bottles – which I had finished three quarters of the way through that last stretch. After some water and coke, I was back in business. The sign exiting the aid station said 4.1 miles “mostly downhill” until the next aid station. The “mostly downhill” must have referred to the butt side section immediately following the climb up the ski slope! We would definitely work to get through those 4 miles. Within a half mile of the aid station, Yuki and Hiro caught up to us as we picked our way along the rocky field leading to the rock bed.

We actually took some pictures – Hiro had a small camera with him. We stuck together for a while – with Yuki and Hiro out front, then Emmy, and I pulled up the rear. Along the rock bed was bear scat! What a strong incentive to keep up with them. Yuki spotted the turn off into the woods, and we followed suit. This short stretch of trail soon opened up to what was the ski slope. Luckily, we only had to climb three quarters of the slope before turning off into the woods. Now came the infamous butt slide where we gave back all that vertical gain in a few short minutes.

At that point that Yuki and Hiro went on ahead. Emmy and I picked our way downhill inch by painful inch. When we reached the bottom there was a quick hop across a stream only to rehop back after a bypassing a short, steep embankment. After that section Emmy pulled ahead and I soon lost sight of her. One last climb had a photographer perched near the top taking pictures. It was just three quarters of a mile to the last aid station. I reached it in 9:08:35 – having taken 1:20:17 to cover 4.1 miles. A sub-10 finish was still doable, but I’d need to do the last 4.2 miles in 52 minutes.

I set off down the road at a nice shuffle only to notice the uphill grade of the road. I walked the last third of that hill and began running after the turn. I laughed out loud as I finished that stretch only to make a left turn and confront yet another uphill climb. That uphill was mainly walked. At the top the course went left into a field with a freshly cut trail across the high grass. I ran that and emerged at the road crossing for Route 36, and was back at the Canaan Valley Resort .

From the road, it was two miles to the lodge. I ran this entire stretch, up to and including the trail behind the lodge. It was on that trail section that I passed the 10 hour mark. I had more one root filled climb to exit the trail and reach the road for the downhill finish. Dan was there taking pictures of as each runner crossed the finish. My watch read 10:04:59 – which I was extraordinarily pleased with! Each runner also received a Patagonia tech shirt for finishing. What a nice touch!

Tim, Yuki, Hiro, and Emmy had already finished, in that order. I found out later that, because of his injury, Tim didn’t stick around after he finished. The rest of us regrouped at the post-race dinner and had a blast going over all the trials and tribulations we experienced during those miles. What a great time this trail run was. It wasn’t easy – but it was fun (and I may even come around to saying it was awesome)!

Highlands Sky and the Ol’ Man

Highlands Sky and the Ol’ Man

There once was an Ol’ Man who had a dream,
to hold a trail race that would make runners scream.

He gathered a group of his closest buddies,
and sent them to Canaan to be the subject of his studies.

They ran the first 15 miles on that fateful day,
“Just one little climb” the Ol’ Man was heard to say.

Up they went to Roaring Plains before they did stop,
the Ol’ Man said “What’s the matter boys, this isn’t the top!”

So on to the gas line and then Boar’s Nest Trail,
“The end of the run is close boys” the Ol’ Man did tell.

Two rivers, one mountain and seven miles later,
a chicken soup dinner the Ol’ Man did cater.

“Tell me what you honestly think” the Ol’ Man said,
“Isn’t this going to be fun or am I just sick in the head?”

They looked at their bloodied legs, all covered in black mud and silt,
“You put this race on, you’ll going to get somebody kilt!”

“Oh come on boys, don’t fear for your life,”
“and by the way, did anybody happen to find a Swiss Army knife?”

Undeterred and with a sheepish grin,
the Ol’ Man said “15 today, but you’ll do 40 by race end!”

As history has it, some folks say,
the Highlands Sky 40 Miler was born on that very day.

Some things have changed and some things have not,
one thing for sure, Highlands Sky is no leisurely trot.

Roots and rocks and stinging plants everywhere,
they’re enough to make an ordained Baptist preacher swear.

Through rhododendron thickets runners will pace,
ever mindful of the next obstacle that will try to plant their grimaced face.

On to swamps and mud knee deep is a spot,
to the “Lehmann Butt Slide” that’s slicker than snot.

To places with names like “Ten Bridges Ridge”,
that has boulders twice as big as a frig.

On to the “Road Across the Sky”,
it’s enough to make a seasoned runner want to cry.

The end of the road is near when you see “Bear Rocks”,
fill your bottles here, but don’t worry about changing your socks.

For now is when you cross “Dolly Sods” proper,
the Ol’ Man says 7 miles, but it’s more like a 10 mile heart stopper.

Water and rocks and a lot of mud,
this isn’t a place for an ultra running pud!

When you have climbed high enough to touch heaven,
you’re at the end of the “Sods”, at Aid Station Seven.

Willie will be there, running the show,
but you won’t linger here because the weather feels like snow.

With a sheepish grin handed down through the Lehmann family tree,
Willie will point to the finish and say “Right there’s where you want to be.”

“Where?” you’ll ask “I don’t see,”
“Way, way, over there,” he will say “across the valley.”

Off you will go just in the knick of time,
as icicles start forming on your sweaty behind.

“One more little climb” Willie will say,
but you know he’s a Lehmann and therefore know you’re going to pay!

With this in the back of your mind,
out of the trees you will run and the ski slope you will find.

UP the slope the trail markers do lead,
little climb your foot, it’s high enough to cause a nose bleed!

Across the top, then down to Freeland Road,
easy going until you get to the part that badly needs mowed.

Step carefully here, in the weeds waist high,
because you may to step in a groundhog hole, up to your thigh.

On to Canaan Valley Resort you will enter,
the asphalt here makes your legs feel like they will splinter.

As you now think you are close to the end,
be prepared for a detour in a road bend.

Back into the woods for another mile of fun,
a lot of shade here, but it’s as hot as the sun.

The thoughts of “I think I can, I think I can”
are now replaced with “Damn you Dan!”

But wait, what is this you hear,
Hoots and hollers….. the finish line is near.

Out of the woods and through the grass,
down to the swimming pool, the finish line at last!

And there standing for you to see,
is the Ol’ Man you’ve been cursing since mile number three.

A smile and a handshake the Ol’ Man will pass,
and for a second you’ll want to tell him to kiss your  – – – !

But these awful thoughts won’t last long,
as he shakes your hand and says “You ran strong”.

“You should be very proud of what you accomplished.” he will say
“Have something to eat and drink and the water hose is right this way.”

With a pat on the back and a few more smiles,
the Ol’ Man will make you forget your troubles from the last forty miles.

The memory of black mud will be replaced with skies of deep blues,
and the rocks will be changed to beautiful scenery and of astounding views.

The Ol’ Man will help you remember all the “Fun” that you had,
and you begin to think this race wasn’t so bad.

With the good soreness and stiffness beginning to take hold,
you will listen to the runner’s war stories as they are told.

Then as the twelfth hour grows near,
the Ol’ Man will still be thanking each runner and hoping they come back next year.

The Highlands Sky is now over as the last runner shuffles through,
the Ol’ Man will shake their hand and tell them how strong they look too.

The Ol’ Man is an inspiration to runners all,
in some folk’s eyes, he’s ten feet tall.

But remember one thing as you see his sheepish grin one last time,
Horton’s plus, plus is nothing, down there in the Virginia pine.
because the Highlands Sky has the Ol’ Man and his “One Little Climb.”

December 2006
Author: An anonymous friend

Helvetia 10K Mountain Run

HS 40M 2006 – Randy Witlicki

Executive summary: I finished the beautiful and challenging 40.7 mile Highlands Sky trail race in Davis, West Virginia on June 17, 2006. My time was 11:18:00 (103 out of 125 finishers). The weather was a clear blue sky and the temperatures climbed into the 80s. The second half of the course is mostly out in the open, so the sun and heat had a big effect. RD Dan Lehmann and his volunteers put on a great race.

At five AM, a line of school buses and various crew vehicles left the front of the Canaan Valley Resort for a half hour curving, climbing, and descending ride in the pre-dawn glow to the start line. At six AM we were off on a easy couple of paved miles. My quads reminded me that I had pushed the pace on a 3+ hour rock and roots hiking trail run six days before, but soon they gave up complaining.

All of this course was new to me, so I settled into the back of the pack as we cruised along, people were chattering and birds were chirping as the sun came up. After a fluids only aid station at 2 miles, we entered the woods for the biggest climb of the day, about 2,300 feet, on trails and old woods roads. June is prime growing season in the eastern U.S. mountains and it has been a good year for stinging nettles which crowded the sides of the trail. Want to step around a muddy spot or pass somebody? Expect to swipe your legs on a nettle patch. Luckily, the nettles were only in this first climb. Mud? The trail by my eastern forest experience, was quite dry. The wet patches were small “hillside swamps” where there was ledge or clay keeping a spot always moist. Some people who had run this race before said they had never seen the course this dry.

Towards the top of the big climb it was running time as the trail became rocky ups and downs on top of the ridge before reaching Aid #2 at about 10 miles.

Between Aid #2 and #3 is a gorgeous downhill stretch along a narrow trail
between laurel bushes towering over our heads. In the deep shade, if
suddenly felt tropical. All downhills must end and soon we were climbing
again on the second big climb, but only for about 1,200 feet. After a
pause at the wonderful Aid #3 (aid stations during climbs are always
wonderful because you get to stop. The people here were great, as they were
at all the other aid stations), it was a little more climbing and then more
open rocky running on the ridge.

I arrived at Aid #4, almost the mid-point of the course and found my drop bag with socks, shirt, food bars and gels, sunscreen, and a hat. The honeymoon of the first part of the course was over. I like ups and downs in the shade. I was back on the trail at about 11:35 AM.

For about a half mile leading up to Aid #4 we had been on a forest service road with some vehicle traffic and this road continued for seven more miles with two 3 mile sections that were straight as an arrow but dipping up and down. Every quarter mile or so, an overhanging tree gave a tiny bit of shade. Mid-way down this long road section, the road bent a little to the right and there was Aid #5. I filled my water bottles, re-wet my hat, used the sponge from a bucket to cool my legs, and then headed back down the road. This was a shift in gears from the pay-attention-to-where-your-feet-land of the single track and it would have been fun if it was cloudy. It was a grind. Must stop whinning. Think positive thoughts. Most people, including me, throttled back their effort levels under the shadeless blue sky and temperatures that seemed to be in the 80s. In hindsight, seven miles on a road out in the open isn’t anything epic, but I wasn’t ready for it. Now I know.

Memo to self: If I don’t start out wearing it, have my neck drape hat and a nylon long sleeve shirt in my drop bag. Always. Except maybe if I go to run in Scotland.

At Aid #6, the end of the road section, I was hoping to return to the shady woods, but for the next 6 or 7 miles, the trail was about 75% open.

When I left Aid #6, I knew I had a 5.8 mile gap to cross, so I drank up and left with two full 20oz bottles. With about a mile left to Aid #7, I was looking at about an inch of water left and once again I throttled back the pace. I crossed meadows and rocky ridgelines on an absolutely stunning run across high terrain. If it had been high overcast and 15 degrees cooler, I would have been in heaven.

I think there is a thin line between “fine” and “fine and miserable”. There is always for me, some period when I’m out beyond four to six hours where I just want to get home and be done. With experience, I’ve come to recognize these “bad patches” in their combination of physical and mental discomfort. Usually, if things don’t get better, they at least don’t get much worse. Ticking off aid stations and counting down the mileage to the finish really helps things along here.

I reached Aid #7 and consumed lots of fluid and fruit pieces, wet my hat and legs, and set out for another mile or so of open terrain before a short climb and a big semi-bushwhack descent through the Timberline ski area. There is a steep section here known as the “butt slide”. This year it was dry loose dirt and I made it down without falling. With any amount of moisture, I could see how we all would be slip sliding our way down.

Soon, we were out of the woods on an open (in the sun again) road to the final Aid #8.

The last four miles were gravel/pavement/grass/pavement and then a woods trail to the finish line next to the swimming pool on the back lawn of the Canaan Valley Resort.

I crossed the finish line 11 hours and 18 minutes after I started over 40 miles away.

What went right: Trail gaiters (my old Joe Dana models). I ate food at every aid station (except for #1 which was fluid only). I ate between some of the aid stations (organic food bars and some gels). I took an S cap every hour and half or so along with potatoes dipped in salt and pretzels and chips at the aid stations. I kept my hat wet and wet down my legs at every aid station in the second half of the course. Staying at the race headquarters Canaan Valley Resort was great.

What went wrong: I didn’t wear a neck drape hat. I didn’t use enough sunscreen and got a sunburn.

My post-race recovery took longer that I expected. I didn’t think I pushed that hard on the course, but it wasn’t just the climb, it was the rocks also.

Next time: Yes, there will be a next time.

Author: Randy Witlicki – Norwich, Vermont

HS 40M 2006 Reward – Alan Gowen

Reward

At 6:00 am on June 17, 2006 Pam and I, along with our friends John and Chris jogged across the start line of the Highlands Sky 40 Mile Trail Run. After 15 minutes or so, Chris and I began to move ahead.

Chris and I have run hundreds and hundreds of miles together. We’ve run fast and free. We’ve limped home, broken and spent. And everything in between. The subjects of our continuing discourse have been varied indeed, and we seldom disagree. As years have gone by, time running on you might say, one of the topics that continues to intrigue is reward. That is to say that the true reward is in direct proportion to the true effort.

A wonderful clear day in March several years ago. Chris and I were together, running. Blue skies, 50 degrees, patchy snow on the ground, hope in the air. Flat out we ran on the Tuscorora Trail, friends together, two old guys boys again and simply flying on that ragged edge of control down, down toward Elizabeth Furnace. Massanutten Mountains, rugged and rocky, but the trail here was smooth and beckoning, urging foolishness. Running hard. Running fast. Hearts pounding. Running free. Somewhere amidst the sanctity of our bliss, we were told by those wheezing with burdens shackled to their backs, stiff hard boots and hands heavy with poles to slow down and enjoy ourselves.

Some people don’t get it, and I guess that’s OK. Let them have their way. Let them though, keep it to themselves.

There’s a difference between passing through and being part of. Many times we are just passing through. But sometimes true effort put forth rewards us in direct proportion when we’re transported to a different level, becoming an integral part of the natural world. We become part of it all, and we’re merely passing through no more.

This was my third time at Highlands Sky, but this was the first time I’d seen this course basking in brilliant sunshine. I’ll leave it to the poets to portray the beauty found. Agreeing once again, Chris and I knew we were in a special place at a special time. True effort transforming us. Highlands Sky extracts a different type of effort from its runners. But Ah! The reward!

Sweat pouring out, temples pounding pulse. Chris snapped my photo as we stopped momentarily on a rocky outcrop; red spruce, azaleas, crystal blue sky with peaks in the background, just before the 1700′ plunge back down into the dark, dank, thick woodlands as we made our way along the remarkable Highlands Sky course. Being transformed, excited as kids, we both said it, out loud, in agreement yet again. Big effort bringing big rewards.

5:00 am bus ride through the darkness to the start with windows fogging up. How old are those buses anyway? Running through twilight parallel to sunrise, the promise of the day to come. True effort beginning with the sun rising in a crystalline blue sky; bodies marching up, steeper and steeper, nettles like tiny razors, 2300 ft. up and up then down and up again. There are really only two significant climbs in this race, but they take their toll early, leaving runners more tired than planned with more than half of the race yet to go. That wonderful sun was hot on this day, and for 20 miles or so, no shade to be found, it baked us. A rare treat though, as the color of the sky was deep dark blue all the way to the horizon. No haze today at this elevation.

If you’ve been there you know what that 7 miles of arrow-straight dusty, gravel road is like. If you haven’t experienced it there’s no point in me wasting more words here Old friends, Chris and I shuffle along dying in the heat, born into the beauty of the day. That miserable road finally gives way to the most visually spectacular part of the course. Memories of alpine meadows high in Colorado as we make our way, picking up the pace, thankfully once again on trails. Chris is a natural athlete, able to parley minimal training into impressive results. His lack of conditioning finally makes itself known, and after 27 miles or so, with confidence and respect borne of familiarity, we part ways. I love this place, and I feel good. The last four miles of this course are on paved roads beneath a hot sun. I’m jogging and running and walking and soon the finish line is mine. The only cloud to be found on this spectacular day is waiting on the other side.

Friend John is standing there, off to the side. John had started the race with us and his being at the finish before me meant only one thing. Indeed as we’d feared just might happen, he’d timed out arriving 7 minutes past the cut-off after 26.3 miles of true effort. Reality shaped by desire had convinced me that somehow he’d make it. Chris arrives only 10 minutes behind me, no worse for wear. We begin to visit and enjoy our lies, when from the scoring table, more bad news. Pam has dropped at the 32-mile aid station. She had enough time left to simply walk the final eight miles. She was in too much pain. Brilliant late afternoon blue skies above. Clouds at the finish line.

Pam soon appears, having hitched a ride back, but she’s still in pain. In two days we find out it’s a kidney stone that’s caused her to suffer mightily out there amongst all that beauty, but for now her true effort has delivered a DNF. John, Chris, Pam and I had all begun our day running four abreast with high expectations. Half of us, true effort aside, hadn’t accomplished what we’d desired. Reward in direct proportion to the effort? Not today for all of us. But the effort was mighty and now it’s money in the bank. Compound interest to pay dividends next time around. And Chris had a very good day considering his lack of training. He only got extremely grouchy near the finish. Glad we went our separate ways when we did.

I had a pretty good day. I finished this hard race feeling good. Chris and I had our moments of big reward from big effort; two friends running together. And we had moments when we were really part of it. Something those just passing through will never understand.

HS 40M 2006 – Michelle Payne

I didn’t decide to race at Highland sky until the Tuesday before. Injury and strep throat had kept me from training for over a month, meaning that since April 21st I’d run a total of 38 miles, with 30 of those occurring before May 13th. But, I’d been looking forward to this race and to staying with my friend Jen Cochran so I decided I’d run, just being sure to start out slow, and hopefully make the aid station cutoffs.
Race day started out a little cool, but I wasn’t worried as I knew if the weather was anything like the day before it would be hot enough fairly soon. The first part of the course was on a paved road and I started off at what I thought was a fairly conservative pace, only to discover I was actually a lot closer to the front than I intended. Turning off the road and heading up the mountain, I caught up to David Horton and Sarah Johnston and stayed with them until aid station 3. Oddly enough the pace didn’t seem too hard and aside from some super prickly nettles things were going all right. However, I knew this course was hard so didn’t get too confident. I felt fine up until the first hard downhill, where my lack of training reared itself with a vengance!!! Ouch! My quads were pretty much shot after that, in fact at some points my legs were actually shaking and that was on flat ground!! I also started drinking a bit too much Perpetuem, I made the mistake of thinking that if I drank more than I needed now, I would have some in reserve for later….not so! Instead I ended up with some stomach cramping issues and at aid station 3, David and Sarah headed on without me.
I got to aid station 4 – roughly the halfway mark in 4:30, so thought that even if I walked the rest of the way (which I came pretty close to doing) I’d still finish without missing the cut-offs. I slathered on the sunscreen from my drop bag and left the Perpetuem behind (probably not a good idea). I wished I had 2 water bottles as I found in the heat, I was running out of water between aid stations. The next 7 miles were on this gravel road, that went up and down and up and down. Two pit stops later, and walking all of the uphills I made it into aid station 6. By this time my stomach had settled down and was actually growling! I was so hungry. I got some food, had my bottle filled with water and ice and was off. The sign said next aid station 5.8 miles (or something close to that). Well, it must have been all of a mile later that I ran out of water and had to walk (although I think my legs would have forced me into a walk before to long anyways) and several people started passing me by.
After hobbling my away across the grass and shakily making my way across the boulders (it’s hard jumping the gaps when your legs are already shaking from tiredness!) I made it into aid station 7. This was a very popular aid station as when I got there, there were about 5 people just hanging out taking a break. I wanted to join them, but knew if I did that I’d never get my legs moving again. Instead I stuffed my face with just about one of everything they had at the table (all except the meat items) and headed off.
The next stretch included an uphill that I didn’t mind, and a really steep downhill that hurt my legs even more, it seemed like forever until I made it out of the woods and met the police officer telling us it was only a quarter of a mile to the next aid station. That was the longest quarter mile I’ve ever run!!! (at least it felt like it). Most of the remaining miles were on paved road or grass, with a small trail section just before the finish. I had a lot of energy left, but my feet and legs just didn’t have the miles in them, so I forced myself into a run/walk between hydro poles. Again several people flew! (or so it felt) past me. Finally I saw the pool behind the resort and knew that I was close to the finish. 9:26:49!
Highlights of the race were of course the unbelievably beautiful views you got running on top of the mountain after aid station 6, the rocky sections – I loved how challenging it was, the friendliness of everyone running, the great aid station volunteers, and the guy with the camera at aid station 4 who I recruited to help me put on sunscreen! (I’m not sure how much he appreciated it!!)
Wildlife seen on the course – 2 deer on the gravel road, a rabbit, 2 snakes – one alive and one dead, chipmunks, birds and thousands of multi-coloured butterflies. I heard two guys saying they had seen a bear!, but I never saw one at all.
It was a great race and I’m glad I decided to run in despite my lack of training. Sunday and Monday I could barely hobble my legs were so sore, but by Tuesday I was feeling almost back to normal, aside from the massive blister I now have on my heel.

Author: Michelle

HS 40M 2006 – Bob Haithcock

Highlands Sky 2006 Race Reports – A NJ Perspective

What a fine idea picking this race for your first ultra! I kinda thought that running on the beach on Raritan Bay and in our infamous single track courses in Hartshorne & Huber Woods in Middletown and walking 3 miles daily to work in NYC avoiding taxis and buses and bike messengers would sufficiently toughen me up for this jaunt through the WV hills. Wrong!!!

Thinking back, I had no right to be here as I hadn’t run a marathon in over 20 years and haven’t run move than a 9 & 12 mile trail (NJ style – no rocks) on the weekends. Thank God, Dan convinced me to run an 18 & 23 miler prior to the Highlands Sky and to carry water.

I felt great in the beginning running and conversing with last year’s grandmaster winner until he just rocketed off on one of the many rocky sections and all of a sudden I found myself alone in the woods thinking of lions and tigers and bears oh my…..and where the hell did everybody go… am I on course?…. is that bear droppings? … how far to the next aid station?….why are my damn legs burning like hell from the knees down?

I …

  • have never felt so humbled (with the exception of the Mountaineers football team beating up on our Rutgers Scarlet Knights in 2001 by a score of 80 – 6)
  • never knew that you could cramp up in both legs at the same time resulting in the wackiest Michael Jackson dance steps ever attempted
  • believe that the Grand Canyon was created by removing all of the rocks and depositing them in Dolly Sods
  • wish that microbrew guy at aid station 7 should have been supplying some IPA in lieu of Gatorade
  • made to many promises to the man above that I could ever recall or keep
    bullet believe that 40.7 miles in WV = 60 miles anywhere else in the U.S. Just what kind of metric system do they use in WV?
  • have never seen so many rocky trails with the exception of climbing Mt. Katadin at the end of the Appalachian Trail in Baxter Park in Maine
  • believe WV is a great place and has been kept a secret from us in NJ

I’m very bad with names but I would like to personally thank Dan and the wonderful volunteers and my new found trail buddies who supplied with ibuprofen, mineral replacement pills, great survival advice and trail companionship during those very and many tough times.

I’m glad that I chose this for my first ultra. How much tougher can any other race possibly be ???

Author: Bob